My Summer Guide to Salento: Otranto and the Adriatic Coast
Out of all the regions in Italy, I think Puglia has to be my favorite. And of all the many cities in Puglia, the area right around Otranto has had my heart for 4 years and counting. I first came across this part of Salento my first summer in Italy and fell in love with the panoramic views, super engaging locals, mouthwatering food, charming small towns and incredible beaches. I have a feeling that this roundup of my favorite places to visit, head to the beach and eat around Otranto is one I’ll be adding to for the rest of my life, but here’s a start.
To stay
If you haven’t already seen my post about Case Vacanze Augusto, check it out here. It’s a fantastic option for anyone looking to stay over night in this area of Salento.
To visit
Otranto
If you’re coming to Salento, there are a few cities that are a must-visit in my book. While Gallipoli is probably the most popular, after the main city of Lecce, Otranto on the other coast is just as wonderful. It’s full of history and beautiful architectural moments, but the main bragging points of Otranto are its port and beautiful lungomare of the fortress. You can walk along the palisades and watch the sun set over the water. It really has a magical feel to it, being surrounding by the rock walls and turrets, despite the abundance of touristy beach shops that bring to mind the main shopping areas of towns like Positano.
That said, I wouldn’t recommend eating in Otranto unless you have a good recommendation for a restaurant and are willing to spend a bit more (I’ve been to Peccato di Vino and had a great experience). This wouldn’t be the place to search for your bargain restaurant. However, having a drink with a view or aperitivo in a charming garden is the perfect solution.
Aperitivo al fresco, in a private garden: L’Ortale
Castro Marina
Castro Marina was a recommendation from our favorite barista in Uggiano la Chiesa, where we stayed for 5 days. She gave us a huge list of small towns to visit, lesser-known beaches and grottos that this area of Salento is known for. While we weren’t able to visit all of them, a few are on this list which goes to show how getting to know the locals when you travel is so rewarding.
This idyllic seaside village has a port and a stretch of rock beaches where you’ll find Italians sunbathing, playing cards and eating the cold pasta they brought from home. Many times, rock beaches are slightly less crowded and you’ll find a different crowd from areas like Baia Dei Turchi, which can be full of tourists in high season.
One of my favorite experiences from our trip was ordering freshly caught fried seafood overlooking the port and finishing it off with a granita. It felt like I reached peak Salento-experience and almost convinced me not to come back to Rome…
Fried fish shack: Friggitoria Porto Vecchio
Santa Cesarea Terme
Continuing along the coast, Santa Cesarea Terme is a gorgeous town that reminds me so much of Amalfi. While I imagine it would be a wonderful town to be based in (as long as you don’t mind the slightly pricier stay due to being right on the water), it was perfect for our post-beach evening stroll and aperitivo. We had drinks and snacks on a terrace with an insane view, where of course I spent the whole time taking photos of my drink with the sunset-lit sea in the background.
Aperitivo bar: Il Triangolo Azzurro
Winery
If its your first time visiting Salento or trying their local wine, you’re in for a treat. There are many different vineyards, enotecas and cellars in the region that offer guided wine tastings for very reasonable prices.
The one we ended up booking was Castel Di Salve, a winery first established in 1885 and that’s stayed in the family since. The tasting included 6 of their 11 different wines and ran the gamut from Verdeca white, a Negoamaro rosato and of course, a variety of Primitivi. The €30/pp price also included a guided tour around the wine cellar and production facilities.
Even if you don’t have time for a full tasting, definitely make sure you pick up a few bottles during your stay because we left with a truckload of very reasonable priced bottles for our trip home.
Wine tasting: Castel Di Salve Srl
To beach
One of the first things I posted on my blog was this roundup of why I love Puglia so much. It heavily featured the amazing variety of beaches in the Salento region and I still stand by my recommendations today after 4 years (but my photo editing and writing quality definitely needed some work).
Baia dei Turchi: Hands-down the most popular beach in Salento, Baia dei Turchi has its reputation for a reason. Sometimes you just want a sandy beach, especially when your other options are mostly all rocky coasts and ports. There’s nothing NOT to love about this long stretch of beach to the north of Otranto. The beach is wide with plenty of space (when it isn’t the peak of August). There are cliffs that provide natural shade if you forget your umbrella and some beach clubs to rent a bed or grab a snack at. The water is truly incredible, so transparent and warm that it feels like you’re in a salty pool. We always end up here if we’re feeling lazy and just want a consistently great beach day.
Porto Badisco: More like a swimming hole than a proper beach, Porto Badisco is where people jump off the rock ledge into the deep water or wade in from the boat launch area. We never swam here but it had an amazing view come sunset.
Honorable mentions: San Foca, Lake of Bauxite della Cava, Torre dell’Orso, Grotta della Poesia and Baia Mulino d'Acqua.
To eat
One of my favorite parts of visiting Puglia is the food. Exploring what each town and part of the region has to offer is my idea of a great vacation, and in Puglia there’s such a unique and special food culture.
High on my list of favorite things to pick up and bring to the beach are the baked goods, i.e. puccie with olives, focaccia with mozzarella, prosciutto and tomato sauce and even eggplant parmigiana. Two of my bakeries in this area are located in very small towns (where all the best stuff is).
The one restaurant I wanted to call out on this side of Salento was one so good we went twice in 4 days. From the setting outdoors in a small town piazza, to the most delicious food of the entire trip, it is well worth a stop. I tried the orecchiette and shrimp ravioli, as well as the mixed fried seafood and it was all phenomenal.
Not-to-miss restaurant: Trattoria Picaló
Like I said up top, I’ll definitely keep adding to this list as I further explore the area but please let me know what your favorite spots near Otranto are! And be on the lookout for a guide of Gallipoli, Lecce and the western coast of Salento coming next week.