My Summer Guide to Salento: Gallipoli and the Ionian Coast
Gallipoli and the Ionian Coast are where most people visit when they come to Salento and for good reason. The Ionian Sea is a bit calmer than the Adriatic coast is, being protected by Calabria to the west and being on a the west coast means that you can catch those stunning sunsets over the water.
Gallipoli and the surrounding area is famous for its beach clubs which means the nightlife in the summer is busy, with visiting DJs and concerts going on during a normal summer (not much this year I’m afraid!) On the opposite end of the spectrum, there are protected wildlife refuges, tiny towns that have never made an appearance on Instagram and a unique culture that keep me coming back year after year.
This is part two of my summer guide to Salento—you can find part one here that focuses more on the Adriatic coast and the area around Otranto.
Towns to visit:
Gallipoli:
When it comes to towns in Salento, Gallipolis is among the most famous. To be honest, when I first visited it a few years ago during the height of summer, I wasn’t too impressed. It can come off as quite touristy and the crowds had me wanting to escape to the smaller nearby towns. But visiting this summer in June without all the crowds has me singing a different tune.
I think it’s a gorgeous city, and walking from the new town over the 17th-century bridge into the old town is a fun experience. In terms of historic significance, the city was founded by ancient Crete, before becoming a part of Magna Graecia, the region of southern Italy settled by the ancient Greeks. Due to its strategic position on the coast, it was often invaded and the old town adapted by putting up defensive walls and the 13th-century Angevine-Aragonese Castle as a fortress.
From a modern day perspective, the main draws of Gallipoli involve shopping at the many boutiques that line its main streets and eating fresh seafood brought into port. It’s important to do your research when eating out here, as there are quite a few tourist traps. We had an incredible dinner on a terrace overlooking the port, with freshly caught fish and reasonable prices, at La Vinaigrette.
While some would put Gallipoli on their list of places to spend the day at the beach, I’m not a huge fan of the popular beach clubs that surround this famous town. If you’re looking for a classic Salento experience (and by that I mean a stabilimento with loud music, overpriced cocktails and dancing on the beach), you’ll probably enjoy places like Baia Verde. That said, if you are not a fan of those activities like myself, I still think Gallipoli is worth a visit if you’re on this side of Salento.
Rooftop restaurant: Ristorante La Vinaigrette
Nardò
I’m calling it—Nardò will be the next big thing when it comes to tourist towns in Salento. This town is an absolute gem and manages to combine all of the culture, history and architecture of larger cities like Lecce with the charm and local feel of a much smaller town. Because the center is a ZTL zone and closed to cars from non-residents, it has a very walkable and quaint city center.
Similarly, the selection of bars, restaurants and shops was wonderful and it actually felt like it had a nightlife compared to sleepy nearby Galatone. It’s less touristy compared to towns like Gallipoli, Ostuni and Otranto, while also being oh-so-picturesque. Can you tell I fell a little bit in love?
I think Nardò is an absolute hidden gem and a must-see on any Salento itinerary.
Typical trattoria with a twist: Il Girone dei Golosi Trattoria di Tradizione
Wine bar ft. wine from a local vineyard: Schola Sarmenti
Galatone:
Galatone is a typical sleepy Pugliese town and I’m here for it. We first stumbled across this town years ago when booking an apartment for a week and fell in love with experiencing Salento like a local. Instead of staying in one of the tourist hot spots, I love being based in a smaller town and exploring out from there and Galatone fits that bill perfectly. You can get to Nardò or Gallipoli within 15 minutes, the beach within 20 and you have all the benefits of being in a local town.
Think fresh pastries in the morning at your chosen bar where the barista learns your name and coffee order, seeing the same old men on their bench reading a newspaper every morning and a neighborhood bakery that you dream about all year round. Isn’t that what everyone wants to experience on vacation?
Cheap and delicious pizzeria: Ristorante Pizzeria Sascianne
Outdoor bistrot with creative dishes: Gustavo
Bakery (savory): Biscotteria Rosticceria Desideria
TIP: head to the big farmers’ market on Saturdays to pick up snacks and fresh food. We always stock up on taralli, capers and olives before heading home here.
To beach:
Torre San Giovanni:
This is a part of the stretch of beaches known as Le Maldive del Salento and it certainly lives up to its same. I will preface this recommendation and most of the following with this: if you’re visiting Salento near Ferragosto (August 15), this beach will be crowded and potentially dirtier than how I found it in June/early July. When we went during August, it wasn’t nearly as nice of an experience. This year however, the large, sandy beach was almost empty and the water looked like a pool. This was my top pick for beaches on this side of Salento and right up there with Baia dei Turchi in terms of how much I loved it.
TIP: We found free parking in one of the lots 5-minutes by foot from the beach and there was plenty of free beach available, with bars to buy food or drinks nearby.
Aperitivo with a seaside view: Sunset Café https://www.facebook.com/sunsetcapilungo/
Punto Prosciutto:
A gorgeous beach to the north of Gallipoli, with a more trendy reputation than the beaches further to the south.
Porto Cesareo:
This town and beach is close to Gallipoli as well, and makes for a great spot for aperitivo or dinner with a view while watching the sun set over the water. We went on a Saturday later in our trip and found it quite crowded.
Note: Similar to Baia Verde, this area can lean more to the “party beach” with larger groups, music and more beach clubs, compared to other options in Salento that are part of the nature reserves.
Padula Bianca:
This was a recommendation from our B&B owner who touted it as a local’s only beach very close to Galatone and Gallipoli. It had lots of stabilimenti with beds and umbrellas for rent and definitely had a more local vibe than some of the area’s more famous beaches.
To drink:
While we ended up choosing a tasting closer to Otranto (see my other Salento guide for more info) I did find many great options on this side of the peninsula that I never got a chance to check out.